Rickshaw Run: Follow The UnRoute

No, it’s not a race.  No, it’s not a rally.

Yes, there is a start line. Yes, there is a finish line.  But everything in between will be up to us.

There is no set route, no back up support, no pre-arranged accommodation and no hand-holding. It’s going to be just the three of us and all the magnificent chaos India chooses to throw at us. There is no way of knowing when or if we’ll get to the finish line. The only certainty is that we will break down, we will get stuck, we will get lost, we will be exhausted and we will have one heck of a lot of fun.

As we prepare for this adventure, planning a daily route is pointless. Trying to sort out where we’ll stay every night is pointless. Detailed planning of any kind is really quite pointless.

What we do know is that we’ll need to drive all the way across the widest part of India from  Jaisalmer in the Rajasthani desert in the far west to Shillong in the Meghalayan hills in the far east. The shortest possible distance is about 2,600 km and we’ll have less than 13 days to tackle it at an average speed likely to be below 30 km/h.

So we know we’ll need to start by pootling across the desert, but after that should we take a left turn into the Himalayas? Or will we head across the northern plains and into Nepal?  We’ll certainly need to traverse some tributaries of the Ganges, pass through some tiger reserves and jungle, before crossing more tea plantations than we ever knew existed. To get to the end we’ll need to squeeze in between Bhutan, Burma and Bangladesh to arrive in the ‘Scotland of the East’ where we’re almost certain to be deluged by rain.

It’s our favourite type of blind adventuring, with no guide book to follow. We much prefer to protect the sanctity of the unknown.

In less than four hours the real adventure begins as the Rickshaw Run launches.

Follow us through The Adventurists, from April 6 – 18, 2015

 Live Tracking Map

Image Source:  The League of Adventurists International Limited

New Look, New Stories

Over the last couple of months, the Smiles & Miles website has received a bit of a facelift in preparation for an upcoming surge of stories.  We’ve created a format that will allow us to continue to share our stories and lessons in a way that we hope will make them more accessible for our readers. Most notably, we’ve added separate pages for each of the countries where we’ve shared our journey and for the resources we’ve made available. There is still lots of construction going on behind the scenes and we welcome your feedback as we continue to make adjustments and additions.

Along with the new appearance, we’ve also added the final stories from our time in Bolivia:

Quinoa Confusion

Coca Capers 

Bolivian Bliss:  Pasteles & Saltenas

Heading to the Chilean Border – For Real This Time


After Note:  You can now follow the Smiles and Miles blog on Bloglovin.


As we continue our drive toward Leon, the devastation of the flooding becomes very obvious.  Even in the fields that were not immersed in water, there is tremendous damage to crops.  This will be particularly devastating to Nicaragua, the poorest country in Central America.  The country’s economy is overly reliant on agriculture and with the corn harvest underway this flooding could not happen at a worse time.

It is particularly difficult to witness this devastation in a country with such a tumultuous history:  hurricanes, earthquakes, volcanic eruptions, war, poverty, crime and corruption.  The country seems to be continuously brought to the brink, but continuously it fights back.  In the coming days, we will learn that the rain we are experiencing is beyond the ordinary for this time of year and has caused severe flooding in Guatemala, El Salvador, Honduras, Nicaragua, and Costa Rica.  It is possible that the worst road conditions we will face are still ahead.  There are reports of fatalities and entire villages being evacuated.  We have seen that it doesn’t take a full-blown hurricane to tear up these poor mountainous countries.

As we head down the road, the sun does come out, but only for a short time before we are once again donning our rain gear.  We are headed to the historic city of Leon, the dusty bullet-scarred city which was once the capital of the nation.  It lost its title in 1852, but has been at the forefront of Nicaraguan politics ever since and was a focal point during the Sandinista revolution – an event that we would soon learn a lot about.

Driving through Nicaragua, it is hard to avoid the smiling face of the incumbent president, Daniel Ortega.  He is everywhere.  It feels more than a wee bit like Big Brother is watching.  Posters proclaiming his loyalty to the people are stationed on government buildings, roadside monuments, and even trees.  Each time we see a television, there he is.  I imagine that this extreme publicity is due to the upcoming election, bet even with an election, this was over the top.  I had to learn more about this man.  Word is that he is an ex-bank robber but he did also became a veteran Sandinista leader.  On becoming President, he refused to occupy the new Casa Presidencial, calling it a symbol of the opulence of the previous administration.  This actually seems like a noble move to me, but we learn that such moves are not proving popular, as Nicaraguans are more concerned about where they will get their next meal than with the posturing of the President.  I’m curious to see how Ortega will make out in the election.

Nicaragua’s real hope lies in its people, and despite the nastiness of everyday politics, it appears that democracy is here to stay, as is the relative freedom of speech that it entails.  Nicaragua may still be the second poorest country in the Western Hemisphere, but their people are well-educated and intent on improving their lot, as we are soon to witness.

Continuing our tour of Nicaragua and approaching Granada we see a line of shiny motorbikes accompanied by their smiling, laughing riders.  We can’t resist stopping to see what they are up to. The group welcomes us with open arms and we enjoy sharing stories of our travels, exchanging information on our bikes, learning about the club’s message of peace, and becoming somewhat educated on the country’s past and present politics.  This group is gathered to prepare for a parade.  Nicaragua’s Vice President is heading toward Granada and the group will be part of his supportive escort into the city.

I never expected to see these two images sharing space.
I never expected to see these two images sharing space.


Caught up in the fun and positive energy, before I know it the group has me waving the Nicaraguan flag and preparing to lead the parade.  We are overwhelmed with the enthusiasm of this group and their excitement in having us join in their celebration.  Minutes later, we are positioned to lead the Vice President and his supporters on their grand entrance into Granada.

Leader of the pack.
Leader of the pack.

As we sit waiting for the Vice President’s approach, the reality of what we are doing begins to sink in. My mind is recalling the numerous pieces of advice I had read from the Government of Canada about how to stay out of trouble in foreign countries.  At the top of the “Things Not To Do” list is “participate in political rallies”.  Any gatherings, particularly of a political nature are to be avoided under all circumstances.

As much as we are enjoying the company of this great group of fellow riders and wish them the best in spreading their message of peace, we recognize that participating in a parade in support of a political figure who we know virtually nothing about is really not the smartest move.  Not wanting to let the group down, we lead the parade for a short while, pull off to take some photos, then let the Vice President and his supporters roll into Granada without us as we head further south toward Costa Rica, grateful for the warm reception and lessons learned.